Joseph, Hans and I embarked on a five-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli. The trek winds through Georgia’s stunning Svaneti region, revealing snow-capped peaks, medieval stone towers and remote mountain villages. Each day we discovered breathtaking alpine views, lush valleys, and rich cultural encounters, culminating in Ushguli, Europe’s highest inhabited village and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Within the first hour of our trek we met school teachers, Matt and Alba, who walked at our same pace and joined us for the entire journey.
Day 1: Mestia to Chvabiani
Distance: About 16 km. Elevation gain: About 250 metres.
Guesthouse: Maia’s Guesthouse, Chvabiani
Our trek began with a gentle start out of Mestia as we followed dirt tracks through gentle slopes and pine forests in the Mulkhra River valley.
Within the first few minutes of beginning our trek we caught up to Matt and Ada who had the same itinerary as us. We bonded and enjoyed their company until the end of the trek.
After hiking for two hours we reached the highest elevation of the day at 1780 metres and had our final view of Mestia and the Mulkhra River valley.
Joseph made friends with a dog when he stopped to admire the twin peaks of Ushba. The dog wasn’t keen on joining us for long.
After four hours of hiking and nine kms we pass through the Svan village of Murshkeli. Supposedly there were 27 residents there but we only saw countless pigs.
After about five hours of hiking and 11 kms we reach the Svan village of Zhamushi (population 35), which has Mt Tetnuldi watching over it.
After hiking 13 kms and as the day grew warmer, we encountered an obstacle that no one warned us about. A recent flood destroyed the bridge over the Mulkra River. We managed to find a way across.
Day 1 Gallery of Photos
Day 2: Chvabiani to Adhishi
Distance: 13 km. Elevation gain: 800 metre.
Guesthouse: Elisabeth Kaldani’s Guest House, Adishi
After breakfast, we explored a Svan watch tower in Chvabiani to see how the Svans lived many centuries ago.
From our guesthouse in Chvabiani, we hiked through pastureland and immediately began ascending and leaving the Mulkhra River behind us.
We ascended 400 metres in the first two hours. Merciless but rewarding. Mt Ushba watched over us in the distance.
After four hours we reached 2400 metres and alpine meadows.
My friend, Barb, suggested I try Google Street view. Just playing. I’ll get better at it.
We crossed a stream lined with verdant flora at 2250 metres.
We reached our destination. The village of Adishi.
Mt Tetnuldi (4,858 metres) in full glory from our guesthouse in the Svan village of Adishi.
In the evening we explored the Church of St. George (Jgrag) in Adishi. Dating back to the 10th century, this small basilica is notable for its frescoes, both on its exterior and interior walls, which are considered among the most significant examples of medieval Georgian mural art. The northern façade (below) depicts the holy warrior St George on a white horse, with St Theodore behind him.
Day 2 Gallery of Photos
Day 3. Adishi Layover
We are having a rainy day layover in the village of Adishi. This village was nearly destroyed by an avalanche in 1987 and now only 35 people remain. It is like a ghost town.
We are staying at the guesthouse of Elizabeth (pictured with her aunt, Lia, and black lamb sleeping under the wood fire). Elizabeth is helping to revive Adishi by catering to an increasing number of trekkers. She taught herself English.
It is not yet noon but Matt John and I have already downed three shots of chacha (a local moonshine similar to grappa) with Elizabeth’s father. A great way to rest after two days of hiking.
The rain has stopped and the sun is filtering into the kitchen. Elizabeth’s aunt, Lia, soaks up some sun. No more cacha and Turkish coffee. We’ll try to get in a day hike this afternoon.
Still waiting for a bit of warmth and sunshine on a rainy day in the Caucasus. We met Ada and Matt on our first day of the trek and they have given us some fun companionship. They are both teachers in Cambodia and previously worked in Oman.
After spending a cold and rainy day in Adishi, we were rewarded with a spectacular sunset. We joined Elizabeth and her little lamb for a stroll through her small village at the foot of Mt Telnukdi.
Day 3 Gallery of Photos
Day 4. Adishi to Lalkhori
Distance: 17 km. Elevation gain: 650 metres.
Guesthouse: Guesthouse Robinzon Lalkhori
Adieu Adishi. Our home for two nights. The clouds cleared and we had great weather for our climb to a pass at 2700 metres.
An hour out of Adishi we reached the Tetnuldi glacier.
The Adishi River is raging with glacial meltwater so a few horsemen from Adishi village come to help trekkers cross the river. Joseph rides acorss the raging river with a guide.
Our mate, Matt, isn’t crazy about horses but he bravely mounted the saddle with our friend, Levan, and Go Pro’ed his crossing. In the distance we could hear huge noises as the Adishi Glacier adjusted its position on Mt Tetnuldi.
We ascended from the Adishi River valley to a pass at 2700 metres which offered a panoramic view of the Caucasus including the Tetnuldi glacier. (Still playing with the Google Street View app.)
Day 4 Gallery of Photos
Day 5: Lalkhori to Ushguli
Distance: 12 km (we chose to walk on the road rather than the forest walk). Elevation gain: 300 metres
Guesthouse:
We made it. We have trekked from Mestia to Ushguli amidst some of the most dramatic mountain scenery and interesting villages I have ever seen. We met Matt and Ada within the first hour of the trek and we walked together the entire trip. Ushguli is the highest inhabited settlement in Europe and still resembles a medieval village.
It’s taken 36 years but Hans and I have finally completed our second trek together. Mexico’s Selva Lacandon tested us mentally and physically in 1981 but that experience created a life-long bond. Once again, Hans and I were able to share a remarkable experience in Georgia’s Caucasus Mountains that will only further strengthen that bond of shared adventures.
My journey is complete. I crossed the mountains for five days and got the ultimate reward … a chance to cuddle a beautiful cat.
Ushguli is by most accounts the highest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe. It is comprised of four villages with an average elevation of 2100 metres. The headwaters of the mighty Enguri River form near Ushguli, fed by glacial meltwater from the Shkhara massif. Inaccessibility has protected Ushguli somewhat from ‘progress’ but that is changing fast as tourists now don’t seem to mind taking a three-hour one-way journey by four-wheel drive from Mestia for a chance to see what really appears to be a medieval village. We chose to trek into the village instead via mountain trails for four days.
As we were having dinner in our guesthouse we heard beautiful music coming through the window. I assumed someone had turned on a radio. Hans looked out the window and saw a young mother singing accompanied by a friend on the pandori, a Georgian guitar. We went out to join them and heard ballads about life in the Caucasus.
Day 5 Gallery of Photos
DAY 6. Ushguli
When we approached Ushguli yesterday we were disappointed that Mt Shkhara was shrouded in clouds. But in the mountains you learn that views are constantly changing and you just need patience. In our case we had to wait till the next morning when Shkhara revealed its full glory in early morning and we only needed to step outside the door of our guesthouse. Shkhara is Georgia’s tallest mountain at 5201 metres and the third highest in the Caucasus.
Days 1-6. Matt and Ada
Years after returning from your travels you will forget the sights you’ve seen, the meals you’ve eaten and the places you’ve stayed.
But you will remember the friendships made.
We met Matt and Ada less than an hour after we started our trek. We immediately connected with them as they hiked about the same pace as us and were of similar disposition. We got busy telling our life stories and I was yakking away endlessly. We stopped at one point and Hans announced we had already climbed 400 metres. I was talking so much I forgot that I was supposed to be exhausted.
Matt and Ada are young school teachers working in international postings. After a few years in Oman they moved recently to Cambodia. Matt teaches economics while Ada teaches primary school. There are many guesthouses to stay at on the Mestia-Ushguli trek but by incredible coincidence Matt had booked the same guesthouses as I had. So we trekked together for the entire five days. They really brought a spark to our trek and provided Hans, Joe and I with wonderful companionship. Hans and I waited 36 years between treks. I don’t think I’ll be trekking three decades from now but I’d happily do a reunion trek with Matt and Ada some year.
