Our son, Xander, has left on a grand South America adventure which will take him to Brazil, Argentina and Peru. One of the highlights of the trip will be a seven-day trek along the Inca Trail. I told Xander about my own experiences in Cusco and Machu Picchu when I was about his age.
And I told him my biggest regret: I didn’t keep a journal. So before he departed, I advised him to take plenty of pictures and write it all down so 30 years later he can relive those great adventures.
I started to really test my memory and recall my trip to the Peruvian Andes in 1989. The photos brought back some memories, but not the details, and I cursed myself over and over because I didn’t keep a journal. I ALWAYS kept a journal on my trips so how could I miss this trip?
I finally thought I’d have a look in my archives as maybe I saved some boarding passes or something which would help me remember the trip.
Much to my extreme surprise and delight I discovered I DID keep a journal. I read through it and it brought back events in my life and names of people I met along the way which I had long forgotten. I’ve been wanting to scan the Kodachromes I shot on that trip, so what better excuse to present them now and here so Xander can compare the Cusco and Machu Picchu I saw 27 years ago with his.
I only spent a four days in Cusco as my main destination was Bolivia and later the Amazon but I did manage to take a number of photos and meet some interesting people. As per my modus operandi, I travelled alone as I felt solitude exposed me to some more interesting experiences. I’m sure Xander will find Cusco and Machu Picchu much different than I did 27 years ago. And I’m sure his experiences will be richer. my other great regret is that I did not hike the Inca Trail. I look forward to seeing his photos and hearing his stories.
[Note: the comments in brackets are editorial and not part of the original journal.]
DAY 1 – 25 June 1989 – Sunday
Arrival to Cusco [after flying direct from Madison, Wisconsin via Miami and Lima]
At the Lima airport a travel agent convinced me to stay at the Hotel El Tambo [in Cusco].
The flight Lima-Cusco – pass cordillera of uninhabited dry mountains. I sat on right, away from sun, but a nice mountain appeared on left. Flight only 1/3 full.
At Cusco airport an old man took my baggage receipts. He grabbed my bags and took them to a car. I gave him US50cents. He showed them to his friends.
Personnel for Helen’s travel agency met me at airport and brought me to hotel. Mercedes agent. She took care of the hotel registration and then tried to sell me some package tours.
Slept for 3 hours after getting room … then set out to explore. Ate at Los Portales on Plaza and asked waiter to pose for pix outside. Very good food.
Walked around plaza. Looked at some textiles and a woman said to go in. Man with great face and hat showed me textiles. I didn’t want textiles but wanted a photo. So I bought a bag and took his picture. I wanted more pix but he didn’t cooperate. Also had to shoot wide open and underexpose.
Cloudy afternoon so came back to hotel and left Domke [my big camera bag] and carried a [Nikon] F3 with 35 mm lens under jacket.
Went looking for railroad station in late afternoon. Walked the street.
Saw a few good doorways and shot them. Forgot to bring xtra film and ran out. Went to market and saw a man selling magical head. Shot B&W with Minox [pocket size ‘spy’ camera; appears that I no longer have this roll of film].
Went to the plaza and sat at fountain. Girl selling cigarettes came up … maybe 14-15 … with baby on back. Wondered if Alan García [president of Peru at the time] controlled the United States. Said García ruining her country – wanted me to take her to the States to clean floors. Indians dressed in Sunday best. Flirting on plaza. Comedian drawing large crowd. Feeling pretty beat. Tired. Headache from altitude. Rest at hotel. Ate at hotel restaurant and crashed by 9.00.
DAY 2 -26 June 1989 – Monday
Tried to get up early but reminded myself I was on vacation.
Grabbed Domke and started exploring south side. Accidently put [Kodachrome] ASA 200 in camera. [Which meant that most of the pics on that roll were overexposed and I threw them out.] Shot some church scenes and then a tile roof – a bit of greenery stuck out. [Actually was shooting old Inca walls still visible in Cusco]
Walked in shadow and looked at bright side of street. Saw graffiti about a paro [strike] and shot it.
Then saw Rambo shooting ice cream. Got an audience. They wanted $1 [for me to take a photo of wall] but then I asked how much they paid Rambo [for rights] – lots of laughs – I wanted people in the shot but didn’t get anything.
Kept walking and found a cemetery [Almudena Cemetery, SW of Plaza]. Boys flocked me offering to guide me. Walked in and saw a good lookin’ gal. I said something about too many ‘niños’ to her.
Kids showed me around, bragging about which grave they shined. Took photo of one of the oldest kids shinning. Owner kicked kids out but they came back. Finally I paid them and told them to leave.
Girl still there on way out. Wanted to take pix but almost walked by her and she said ‘hasta luego’. I asked if she were a student and if she’d pose. She was and did. Bright sun wasn’t good on her so I moved her to the shade.
Name Carmen. Spoke a while with her. Studying law and then wants to study medicine. Told her about myself. Soft-spoken, very pleasant. Wanted to ask her out, she seemed to want to talk to me. I said I could take a Polaroid but she said ‘otro momento’. I took it for a no. She was studying for exams. I should have set a time for ‘otro momento’ but foolishly I didn’t.
She posed very naturally for the camera. I really was attracted to the woman and looked for her later in the Plaza. I said I’d send her a photo, I had her address on the model release.
Returned to hotel then went to Plaza. Dance for youth group going on. Paid 1,000 for poster but didn’t take it.
Another vendor wanted $ but I said I already gave. Didn’t believe me but bystanders supported me. I said I’d take a picture of poster I bought but didn’t take. Lots of laughs from the crowd. Lousy photo though. Sun too harsh.
Wanted panoramic view so started walking NW. Found great views.
Went to ruins. Shot some women tending cattle.
Man and woman sitting outside [shop]. Asked if I were going to ruins [a complex of ruins NW of Cusco – Saqsaywaman, Muyuq Marka, Rodadero; doesn’t appear that I shot photos of these ruins]. I told him I was more interested in living things. He brought me inside his textile factory and told me to take pix. Then tried to sell me things.
Eventually bought a sweater and then took more pix.
Working in shade. Low light 1/30-1/60 sec at f2.8 and f4. Name: Carlos Pumayali. Pumacurco #549. Cuzco, Peru. Fabrica de Tejidos Incas. Cochapata.
[I continue hiking up a road into the countryside leading out NW of Cusco] Further on 2 women weaving by roadside. They called to me and wanted to sell some textiles to me. Eventually I bought a hat and took one woman’s photo.
She didn’t speak Spanish well. Thought 3000 for her was enough but she wanted another propina.
Walked on in high spirits, thinking that doing it alone is a great idea. Walked off the road and a shepherd waved his cane to a distant trail. Sat beside him and chatted but he hardly spoke any Spanish [his native tongue would probably have been Quechua; his mouth was full of coca leaves].
He tried to say ‘propina’ so I said OK and took some great shots. Changed rolls and winder didn’t work. Had to meter by f16 rule. Later found the rewind on MD-4 was out of place.
Decided not to walk further up so started down and old women asked for another photo. OK. Used f16 [rule] again.
Feeling pretty beat so walked down but shot some barley first.
Then encountered a farmer – owned the parcel – shot him loading some plants I didn’t know. Farmer says humans eat it like peanuts. He seemed to be in a hurry so I didn’t get great shots. Nice conversation. No propinas. Shot some wheat [barley?] next.
Back at Plaza had a great coffee with milk – cappuccino – at Hotel Winowatce (sp?) on corner – hoping I’d bump into Carmen. Lots of babes on street. Sat down at Plaza – a little bit bummed with all the tourists.
School kid sits next to me and asks where I’m from. Then I remember I forgot to reconfirm [my flight to La Paz]. Sergio [the kid who sat next to me] offers to guide me. Faucett too busy. Decide to call. Have to get rid of Sergio so I give him 1000. Comes running up wondering if I need a guide to Machu Picchu.
Feeling beat but fairly good. Frequent minor headaches [from altitude]. Feeling good after hot shower. Eat at Victor’s – arroz con pollo. Sergio and little urchin friend find me and tag along until I duck into a restaurant but they wait outside for me. Music in restaurant but I get bored and leave. Sergio doesn’t find me. Back at hotel by 8:30.
DAY 3 – 27 June 1989 – Tuesday
Up at 5:15 to get to train depot. A woman sells me her ticket. Package deal with a French group. Feeling higher than ever on train ride. Dawn breaks. Frost on ground. Peasants working fields. Andean music in train. Incredible. Scenery is beautiful.
Turned off by first impression of Machu Picchu. Big crowds. Board bus for 20-minute ride up road with hairpin switchbacks.
I walk around [Machu Picchu] for a bit. Light is lousy for classical shot. Shoot maintenance man. Pretty hungry for lack of breakfast so hang out at hotel until lunch is served.
After lunch take some tourist shots then begin to climb Wynapicchu [this is the steep mountain seen to the right on the classic MP photo].
Climb is strenuous but not technically difficult. Meet two Peruvians on way resting and ascend with them.
Legs starting to cramp but make it to the top. On top spend several hours. Meet a Frenchman teaching in Iowa and a Texan. Have lots of fun with Peruvians, Olinda and Edith.
A group of Swedes arrive with Cusco guide name Edwin – magical mystery tours. Edwin is preaching.
I crawl on a nearby rock to listen. [Edwin] is expert in Inca studies. He calls everyone together to mediate. I refuse at first but get drawn in. Lots of praying and stuff. We all form a circle and hold hands. Lasts for 10 minutes. Feeling pretty uncomfortable since I don’t believe in this stuff.
After meditation, Edwin asks us to introduce ourselves and I feel welcome in the group. They invite us to supper and a candlelight bath at the hot pools.
Feeling totally beat on the way down. But climb up to the guardhouse hoping to get a better shot of the classical position. Light still poor. Apparently you need to do it [photograph the ruins] at dawn. By 5 tram set out and I leave.
Take train with Swedes to A.C. [Aguas Calientes] and go to Gringo Bill’s where Frenchman invited me to stay. But they’ve got 4 people in 4 beds. Apparently someone sleeping together. All other rooms are shared. Don’t like the scene. Go to Youth Hostel. Receptionist not so polite. No singles so I have to pay the price of a 4-bed room. Since I’m beat and don’t want to share a room I pay the price. Room is quite nice with open windows to sound of river. Eat at a restaurant on way to Baths. Don’t feel like joining the Swedes.
Drinking a beer and eating pizza when Edith and Olinda walk in. They missed their train. I offer them a drink and they stay. Eventually they eat and we stay until about 11. They’re very pleasant and fun and we talk through the night. Swedes and Frenchman come back from bath. Made arrangements to meet Olinda and Edith next day in Cusco for Polaroid and ‘mate de coca’.
DAY 4 – 28 June – Wednesday
Rise at 6. Angry because breakfast isn’t ready. Walk down train tracks toward ??? thinking I might climb a trail.
Take lousy pictures of train coming. I wasn’t ready.
Then decide I’m too tired to hike and go to river and relax for about two hours.
Pretty impressed with Urubamba. A wild river. Could be ultimate kayak adventure but rapids almost too long.
Take clothes off and try to sit in a pool but water is too cold.
Return to Aguas Calientes for hot bath and lunch then board train at 2:30. Train travels to Ollantaytambo, then board bus. Bus ride fantastic at dusk. Peruvian countryside is beautiful. Peasants walking across fields stirring up clouds of dust. Children standing in doorway watch bus go by. Sunset. A bit of Alpine glow. Arrive in Cuzco at 6 PM.
Folklore group playing at Plaza. Supposed to meet Edith at 8 but don’t find her. Listen to group on chilly night. Give up on Edith and have supper. Bistek very well seasoned. Walking from restaurant meet group of drunks who invite me to ‘drink pisco with Peruanos’. I take their bottle and have a drink on the streets. Return to hotel and find note Edith left to meet at Huatachay. Find her, Olinda and river guide named Yeto. People dancing to live band playing Andean music. Yeto works for agency that has two kayaks, including a Dancer. Can organize kayak trips. Leave bar and look for ‘mate de coca’. Everything closed. Lots of drunks on streets. One AM in the morning and souvenir vendors still selling things. We drink ‘ponche de ava’ – hot drink with clove, pisco optional. Friends walk me home and I try to take Polaroid but it doesn’t work. Flashed but didn’t spit out picture. In hotel take film pack out and put new one in. Eventually get it to work but after wasting film. Hardly sleep at night.
Day 5. 29 June
To airport – airport fee $7. Faucett flight one hour late. [Journal continues with arrival to Cochabamba, Bolivia where I meet my ‘exchange sister’ Eliana]