There was one certainty in the Syria of the 1990s. If you arrived at someone’s home or tent, no matter where it was and no matter what the time and no matter if they were rich or poor, you would be invited in and offered a coffee or tea or more likely than not, a meal.

I had been travelling with some ICARDA research scientists for hours in the steppe on a series of tracks – hardly roads, but parallel ruts in the ground. In distance we saw a tent and approached.

The tent dweller must have seen our dust cloud from miles away because when we arrived at his tent the kettle was on and the Arabic coffee brewing. He entertained us while we rested from the journey and then off we went and he got ready for his next visitor which might be days or weeks later.