Joseph, Hans and I embarked on a five-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli. The trek winds through Georgia’s stunning Svaneti region, revealing snow-capped peaks, medieval stone towers and remote mountain villages. Each day we discovered breathtaking alpine views, lush valleys, and rich cultural encounters, culminating in Ushguli, Europe’s highest inhabited village and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Within the first hour of our trek we met school teachers, Matt and Alba, who walked at our same pace and joined us for the entire journey.
Day 1: Mestia to Chvabiani
We have departed on our five-day trek to the village of Ushguli, the highest inhabited settlement in Europe.
Hiking two hours now. The view from 1780 metres.
Four hours of hiking and we pass through a Svan village of five houses and countless pigs.
Six hours of hiking and Mt Tetnuldi watches over us.
Day 1 Gallery of Photos
Day 2: Chvabiani to Adhishi
We spent last night in Chvabiani and went inside the watch tower this morning to see how the Svans lived many centuries ago.
Ascended 400 metres in first two hours. Merciless but rewarding. Another 400 metres to climb before reaching today’s high of 2400 metres. Mt Ushba watches over us in the distance.
After 4 hours we reach 2400 metres and alpine meadows.
My friend, Barb, suggested I try Google Street view. Just playing. I’ll get better at it.
We reached our destination. The village of Adishi.
Mt Tetnuldi in full glory from our guesthouse in the Svan village of Adishi.
Day 2 Gallery of Photos
Day 3. Adishi Layover
We are having a rainy day layover in the village of Adishi. This village was nearly destroyed by an avalanche in 1987 and now only 35 people remain. It is like a ghost town.
We are staying at the guesthouse of Elizabeth (pictured with her aunt, Lia, and black lamb sleeping under the wood fire). Elizabeth is helping to revive Adishi by catering to an increasing number of trekkers. She taught herself English.
It is not yet noon but Matt John and I have already downed three shots of chacha (a local moonshine similar to grappa) with Elizabeth’s father. A great way to rest after two days of hiking.
The rain has stopped and the sun is filtering into the kitchen. Elizabeth’s aunt, Lia, soaks up some sun. No more cacha and Turkish coffee. We’ll try to get in a day hike this afternoon.
Still waiting for a bit of warmth and sunshine on a rainy day in the Caucasus. We met Ada and Matt on our first day of the trek and they have given us some fun companionship. They are both teachers in Cambodia and previously worked in Oman.
After spending a cold and rainy day in Adishi, we were rewarded with a spectacular sunset. We joined Elizabeth and her little lamb for a stroll through her small village at the foot of Mt Telnukdi.
Day 3 Gallery of Photos
Day 4. Adishi to Iprali
Adieu Adishi. Our home for two nights. The clouds cleared and we have great weather for our climb to a pass at 2900 metres.
An hour out of Adishi we reached the Tetnuldi glacier.
The Adishi River is raging with glacial meltwater so a few horsemen from Adishi village come to help trekkers cross the river. Our mate, Matt, isn’t crazy about horses but he bravely mounted the saddle with our friend, Levan, and Go Pro’ed his crossing. In the distance we could hear huge noises as the Adishi Glacier adjusted its position on Mt Tetnuldi.
We ascended from the Adishi River valley to a pass at 2900 metres which offered a panoramic view of the Caucasus including the Tetnuldi glacier. (Still playing with the Google Street View app.)
Day 4 Gallery of Photos
Day 5: Iprali to Ushguli
We made it. We have trekked from Mestia to Ushguli amidst some of the most dramatic mountain scenery and interesting villages I have ever seen. We met Matt and Ada within the first hour of the trek and we walked together the entire trip. Ushguli is the highest inhabited settlement in Europe and still resembles a medieval village.
It’s taken 36 years but Hans and I have finally completed our second trek together. Mexico’s Selva Lacandon tested us mentally and physically in 1981 but that experience created a life-long bond. Once again, Hans and I were able to share a remarkable experience in Georgia’s Caucasus Mountains that will only further strengthen that bond of shared adventures.
My journey is complete. I crossed the mountains for five days and got the ultimate reward … a chance to cuddle a beautiful cat.
Ushguli is by most accounts the highest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe. It is comprised of four villages with an average elevation of 2100 metres. The headwaters of the mighty Enguri River form near Ushguli, fed by glacial meltwater from the Shkhara massif. Inaccessibility has protected Ushguli somewhat from ‘progress’ but that is changing fast as tourists now don’t seem to mind taking a three-hour one-way journey by four-wheel drive from Mestia for a chance to see what really appears to be a medieval village. We chose to trek into the village instead via mountain trails for four days.
As we were having dinner in our guesthouse we heard beautiful music coming through the window. I assumed someone had turned on a radio. Hans looked out the window and saw a young mother singing accompanied by a friend on the pandori, a Georgian guitar. We went out to join them and heard this ballad about the hard life of a man living in the Caucasus.
Day 5 Gallery of Photos
DAY 6. Ushguli
When we approached Ushguli yesterday we were disappointed that Mt Shkhara was shrouded in clouds. But in the mountains you learn that views are constantly changing and you just need patience. In our case we had to wait till the next morning when Shkhara revealed its full glory in early morning and we only needed to step outside the door of our guesthouse. Shkhara is Georgia’s tallest mountain at 5201 metres and the third highest in the Caucasus.
Days 1-6. Matt and Ada
Years after returning from your travels you will forget the sights you’ve seen, the meals you’ve eaten and the places you’ve stayed.
But you will remember the friendships made.
We met Matt and Ada less than an hour after we started our trek. We immediately connected with them as they hiked about the same pace as us and were of similar disposition. We got busy telling our life stories and I was yakking away endlessly. We stopped at one point and Hans announced we had already climbed 400 metres. I was talking so much I forgot that I was supposed to be exhausted.
Matt and Ada are young school teachers working in international postings. After a few years in Oman they moved recently to Cambodia. Matt teaches economics while Ada teaches primary school. There are many guesthouses to stay at on the Mestia-Ushguli trek but by incredible coincidence Matt had booked the same guesthouses as I had. So we trekked together for the entire five days. They really brought a spark to our trek and provided Hans, Joe and I with wonderful companionship. Hans and I waited 36 years between treks. I don’t think I’ll be trekking three decades from now but I’d happily do a reunion trek with Matt and Ada some year.
