Joseph and I traveled to Georgia from 7 July to 1 August 2017 for a father/son adventure featuring some trekking in the Svaneti region in the Caucasus and exploring Tbilisi, Kazbegi and Batumi.
This is Part 2. The journey to the Russian border
DAY 5. Tbilisi to Kazbegi.
Mike introduces a guest to the ‘Mike and Joe Go to Georgia’ show. If you could only hear Khakha in our crappy audio you would hear about fascinating city of Mtskheta and the sixth century (we got it wrong in the video) Jvari Monastery. Despite the bad audio, the views in the video are nice.
Jvari Monastery. I was going to have a ‘no selfie’ policy on this trip blog but this isn’t a selfie. Khahka grabbed my camera and wanted to a get a shot of us. The Jvari Monastery overlooks Georgia’s first capital, Mtskheta, and was originally built in the sixth century. UNESCO lists it as a World Heritage Site.
Mtskheta. A city on the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari Rivers first settled in the fifth century.
The Georgian/Russian border. We travelled the length of the Georgian Military Road to where it ends in an incredibly rugged spot of the Caucasus.
Kakha, Joe and I enjoy a feast at a guesthouse in a small village in the Caucasus near the Russian border.
Day 6. Gergeti Tinity Church
Gergeti Trinity Church. Hike to Mt Kazbek. After 7 months of planning and anticipation, Joseph and I finally lace up our hiking boots for our first of many hikes in the Caucasus.
From the Gergeti Trinity Church we set out to hike up to a pass where we could get a view of Mt Kazbek and the glacier. We climbed up for two and a half hours. For a while we’d have sunshine and minutes later we’d be in clouds.
The 14th century Gergeti Trinity Church watches over the Caucasus Mountains.
Hike to Gergeti glacier. Joseph pauses on one of the only level spots on the trail. In mid July the alpine meadows were still full of flowers and quite green due to recent rains.
Kazbegi. After a two and a half hour ascent we find ourselves in the clouds at nearly 3000 metres.
Arsha Pass on the trail to Mt Kazbek. 2940 metres. We waited at the pass for 30 minutes with the hope that the clouds would open to reveal Mt Kazbek but we had no luck. However, to the East, the clouds opened at times to give us stunning views.
Arsha Pass on the trail to Mt Kazbek. Georgian men lead a team of horses along a distant ridge with the Caucasus Mountains in the east occasionally revealing themselves.
The Greater Caucasus run from roughly the Black Sea in southern Russia, through northern Georgia and almost reaching the Caspian Sea in Azerbaijan. Europe’s highest mountain, Mt Elbrus, lies in the Greater Caucasus.
Gergeti Trinity Church. Our guardian angel, Khakha. We met Khakha through his sister-in-law, Tamriko. Khakha is a father of two sons and recently retired from the Georgian Armed Forces where he served in Afghanistan. He has been our driver, guide, translator, entertainer and best friend on our three-day Kazbegi journey. He had never been to the Gergeti Trinity Church so we are happy we could all share the experience together.
Russian target practice. Gergeti Trinity Church. Kaxa and I walked inside the chapel of the Gergeti Trinity Church and Kaxa bought a few candles for us to light from a priest. I asked a bunch of questions about the church and Kaxa translated. I asked if I could take photos but the priest said no, but later said I could photograph the ceiling. Then he waked outside and beckoned me to follow. We jumped up a stone wall and he instructed me to take a photo of the cross. I did and then he grabbed the camera from me and started zooming in and centering on the cross in the LCD screen and started explaining things in Georgian. Kaxa explained. If you look closely enough you will see bullet holes. The priest pointed to the parking lot far down the hill and explained the Russians (or probably Soviets) would shoot at the cross for target practice.
